Friday, May 18, 2012

To Everest and Beyond- Part 1 of 3


I’m sitting in Kathmandu airport again as I begin my another leg of my jouney. It’s May 15 here and I won’t be arriving home until June 6, so I have many adventures to go. I’m early for my flight so I’m enjoying a final cup of Nepal chiya so that it lingers on my taste buds and I can compare it to India’s chai. Though I don’t know how much chai I’ll be drinking, as it’s going to be uber HOT. Maybe there is such a think as cold milk tea? I’ll opt for fresh mangos and lassis ;)
The last time I wrote I was frustrated with the city and ready for a break. Upon reflecting I realized that even though there are certain aspects I don’t like about Kathmandu (there are certainly many things wrong at home and I remember loosing my temper in Peru when things got exasperating) it has grown on me a bit, though I’m not sure I’m ready to admit it out loud. My appreciation for Nepal has been renewed and I’m sad I’m leaving. In the last few days I hung out with friends from the hospital and friends I made hiking in the Himalayas. Nepal has one of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve seen. The mountains are breathtaking. To date, my longest hike had not surpassed 5 days, but here I am, status post a 2 week hike and I’m still glowing. It was renewing, refreshing, revitalizing, etc. Via the lonely planet thorntree forum (thanks for the suggestion Liz!) I found a trekking buddy named Leza. She’s from London and initially unbeknownst to be, she hadn't been hiking, but she managed to rock this 2 week walk that many have trouble completing due to altitude.
I’ve now posted lots of photos on facebook, and I have so many others that are equally beautiful so I won't add any to this entry. I’m going to have trouble figuring out which ones to print. I wanted to take the time now to write about my trekking so I can remember it later when I need a time out and convince myself to return to Nepal and go hike in Annapurna.
Christina, an awesome friend and fellow Fogarty, got me excited about Nepal more than 1 year ago. When I mentioned I was coming here for a rotation, she said it was her favorite country and put me in touch with the guide she used to hike base camp. After meeting with Kamal, her guide friend, and settling on a price, I decided to go for it. When would I have this opportunity again? I figured it was now or never. I was actually going to do the hike alone for most of the time that I’d been planning it.
Day 1: I worked for a little over 5 weeks at the hospital and finished enrolling patients for my study. On Saturday, April 28, Kamal (guide), Leza (new London friend and fellow trekker), and I headed to Kathmandu airport for our flight to Lukla. I didn’t look up too much information about the Lukla airport, as I’d been warned it’s the most dangerous airport in the world. The planes flying into Lukla are small, with maybe 14 passengers. As we were landing, the conversation I was having with the Spaniard across the aisle came to a halt as my eyes focused on the short landing strip. I didn’t even manage to take out my camera for photos.
After arriving, Kamal hired Harri, a 20 year old Nepali who would be our porter for the trip. Harri lives a 2 day walk away from Lukla. Over the course of the trip we learned his dream was to improve his English and learn French so that he could become a guide (there a tons of French trekkers in Nepal). Harri is tall, but lanky, so I wasn’t sure how he’d do, but Kamal had worked with him before, and sure enough, Harri was a rockstar. After a masala omelet at the Nest, a teahouse in Lukla (2850m), we walked about 2-3 hours to Phakding (2640 m) in light showers and settled there for the night where I enjoyed a potato and carrot curry for dinner.
Day 2: We woke up and headed to Namche. On this day, I got my first view of Everest! What I also remember about this day is going up, up, and up. It seemed that at every corner, and every time I thought it would stop, there was another switchback. I took it well, only stopping for a short break at the Everest View Point and then continuing up, where Namche came into view. We ended the day at 3450m and had hot shower #1 in steel contraption outside our teahouse.
Day 3: Most people stay in Namche for two days to acclimate, simply taking a hike up to view the museum, but Kamal gave us the option of going to Khumjung, which was less than 2 hours away. Thus, we headed up to the museum, then had a cup of tea at the Everest View Hotel (there’s a helipad that brings in rich tourists who stay at this hotel to catch a glimpse of Everst), and then made it to Khumjung. On this day I finally saw Yaks, which I got super excited about and ran out to take photos…only later would I learn the truth about them ;) After viewing Amadablam mountain and leaving our things in the teahouse, we headed for a Buddhist monesterary where a Yedi head is stored…unfortunately, the person who kept the keys was gone, and we never had a chance to go back and look. Khumjung is a fairly well off village given that most of the town’s families were involved as the first expedition sherpas. On this day we slept at 3790m.
Day 4: We headed to Pangboche (4000m). Somehow we made it later in the day and Kamal hadn’t called ahead, so when we arrived, there was a big group of Russian trekkers who were making their way back to Lukla. In addition to going heavy on the spirits, they booked out the hotel, leaving us with really the really cold, dirty rooms. Pangboche also managed to kick up the degree of coldness. To help out, the teahouse use Yak droppings to fuel the fires in the dining halls, and I can tell you that I really appreciated it.
Day 5: We took a short, 3 hour walk to Dingboche (4350m). It was a small climb and we had the opportunity to take a warm bucket shower (with boiled water for 400R). Here we met Shriya, an awesome Nepali lady who lives in Canada and was spending a few days at Dingboche after coming down from Camp 4 to continue acclimating and resting before attempting the summit. It was pretty inspiring to speak to her about her experience! Experienced Hot shower #2, though I'm not sure I needed it, I'm glad I did it as it was a while before I got another one.
Day 6: We headed to Lobuche over the course of 4-5 hours. The beginning was easy, and we stopped for tea before the Tukla pass. At the pass we saw lots of engravings and statues commemorating those who have attempted the summit or who have had mishaps in the Everest Region. It gave us some perspective and made me evaluate my own feelings about the hike. On this day I also remember feeling so cold as we were going through the pass. I never want to know what frostbite feels like, but I know it must be immense pain, as my fingers have never hurt that way. Kamal let me trade gloves with him as he was doing ok. Upon arriving at Lobuche (4940m), I was happy the dining room was warm—especially when 30 min after arriving it started snowing and kept going all night. I gave into the card madness and learned a few games that helped us pass the time. At one point, I’d told Kamal that I wanted a picture with a Yak. So that afternoon, we saw a Nak and her baby out there and Kamal said let’s go! At this point I didn’t know that the Yaks/Naks can be dangerous, especially mother Naks. I approached the Nak and yelled at Kamal to take a photo. Suddenly the Nak turns to me and threatens me with her horns. I ran back to the teahouse without looking back while Kamal attempted to take photos. As soon as the Nak realized what he was doing, she went after him. Thankfully we both made it back in one piece, but after that I was forever scared of Yaks.
Day 7: I woke up early with a massive headache. I wasn’t sure if it was the altitude or my dehydration (since I barely drank anything the day before) or a combination, but it made me double think going to Gorak Shep. I’d been taking diamox, so I took and extra dose, drank a ton of water, and took ibuprofen. As we started walking, I felt better, so I decided it was ok. We walked through Khumbu Glacier and the surrounding mountains, which were covered in white. It reminded me of Christmas. At this point it was no longer snowing. In fact, the skies were clear and the view was of powder white mountains. It was absolutely stunning and cured my headache. Gorak Shep is at 5,170m, so when we got there, we had a brief lunch, left our things, and walked about 2 hours to Base Camp (5,360m). I was still a little worried about the headache given the extra 200m we had to go, but I felt ok, and as Base Camp came into view, all other thoughts went away. I saw the yellow, blue, and red tents come into view and started looking for the Canadian flag, as Shriya said we should go have a cup of tea at her station. Kamal had warned us about base camp being lots of tents, etc and kind of anti-climactic, but I still think my journey wouldn’t have been complete without going there. That’s where it all begins for the Expedition climbers, and I wanted to experience that, even if I really didn’t get a view of Everest. It started snowing again as we were there, and I got cold. Remembering the pain I felt earlier, I power walked back to our teahouse. When I got there, I spent some time looking at the roof which was covered in different flags and met Limor and Guy, two Israelis who I immediately liked and started playing card games with. We made plans to wake up at 3:30am the next morning to head up to Kala Patar and see Everest. So in the middle of the night Leza and I woke up, got dressed, and were ready to go when Kamal knocked on our door and informed us that the storm was still going and there was no view to see on Kala Patar.  I was somewhat relieved, as my headache had come back and slept for a couple more hours.
Day 8: Kamal offered us an extra day in Gorak Shep to try to go to Kala Patar the next day, but Leza and I decided to head on, in hope of a view of Everest in Gokyo. We didn’t want to risk another crappy weather day and miss out on things later, and in retrospect, it was an awesome decision. So, after breakfast we headed to Dzonglha (4850m). It was still snowing, so we headed down to Lobuche, had a snack, and continued on to Dzonglha through the storm. The sky kept getting worse. It was gray, cloudy, and crazy. There was no trail to be seen, and we had no idea where we were walking. I was definitely thankful we had a guide that day. That night when we arrived at our teahouse we were happy to see that Limor, Guy, Nik, and Mads were there, as we continued our card games and met two awesome Russians who we added to our group, Sergey and Ilia. We definitely needed as many people in that guesthouse as possible to contribute some body heat…

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